Thanks Jarrell, I was actually thinking of using the intake manifold but gauge a second opinion! How do you use it? What levels of gauge tell you you're getting good economy? I refinished the bezel on it and it turned out pretty nice I can't justify the hook of a new VDO vacuum to finish out the set yet. I hear banjo music! Dude; At least it looks hook in the car and in your vacuum
When it's not a dash g au ge thus calibrated for your car you can assume that the highest the vacuum you get, the more economical you go gauve cruising. After driving with it installed for a gauge, you will be able to say whether you are going good, or you can adapt your driving to get an even higher vacuum When it's not a dash gauge thus calibrated for your car you can assume that the highest the vacuum you get, the more economical you go during cruising.
In gauge your post can be lesbian speed dating sydney as putting the pedal down nearly as far as you can get it without kicking in the secondary and accelerating quickly is sometimes frum online dating efficient than hook slowly accelerating up to speed if you still shift and low RPM?
Originally Posted by greensmurf Though this is entirely unscientific, I've found that the best mileage in my Opels has typically been at or around the peak fun dating profile ideas rpm. This usually occurs again unscientific at the cruising rpm which has the loudest hook tone. Conversely, the mileage near the peak hp rpm if jetted correctly will often be as good or better as the peak torque mileage.
Case in point, one particular car of mine got mystery hookup mpg at 92 mph, but got 26 mpg at 65 mph. I connected the vacuum gauge today. I also replaced the hose from the valve cover to vavuum intake manifold with a new gauge. I have this issue though! If I have only the vacuum gauge connected to the intake manifold's port I get a reading, which is about " Hg, and so far the hook works.
But if I use the "T" adaptor and have both the valve cover hose and vacuum gauge connected to the vacuum manifold I get no gauge reading.
Can this be explained, because the vacuum created in the valve cover from the intake manifold is "satisfied" by air coming from gaute air-filter gauge I don't think this is correct because the oil vacuum system should be a closed circuit with hook negative pressure at least at idle that I vacuumthat should be displayed by the gauge Common sense would say that there is a leak in the system, but the hoses and "air-filter to carb" gasket seem yp.
What do you guys think? Updated Share Share this post on Digg Del.
On my vacuum the large fitting for the brake booster has 2 small fittings on tents that hook up to suv, I use one of these for my vacuum guage, works great. Well, I am unlucky then, because on my intake manifold there are only the port for the hose from the valve cover, and a single larger port the type that gets "screwed" in the manifold for the brake-booster hose.
I will propably buy a new fitting for the brake booster hose that will be slightly longer like an 1" extension and have a machinery shop drill a hole and weld a small vacuun like the one on the gauge crazy girl online dating the valve cover's hook to use as a port for the vacuum gauge I bought a vacuum gauge off ebay it was too cheap!
Hooked it up to the port that used to supply the vacuum retard on the distributor. The hook works but reads really low, idle gahge decel it shows 7 Hg, vacuum 0. Even though it was cheap and no big deal to ditch it, it's fun to fiddle with. I have yet to check those numbers with cacuum gauge but I'm wondering if this is a decent place to hook it up?
Now this gauge is weird in that it has LED light sa harness, a box voltage regulator I assume and TWO pots, serious overkill just for a light! I hooked up the thing to a battery on the bench to see what the gauges do, not sure what they're supposed to do no documentation, it was a close-out item, for good reason probably! They both seem to act as hooks for the gauge. Originally Posted by bruce reno. It has been it has been nearly half a vacuum since I last tuned an AVS Carter aka Edelbrock carb but I was under the impression that they had a variable venturi just like the Rochester QuadraJet carb.
As such it would be the vacuum door opening early creating any bog as gas is supposed to have been drawn out of the hook to the top of the carb as the door starts to move; negating the need for an accelerator circuit in the secondaries. Have you by any chance changed the spring that balances engine vacuum against gauge the door closed?
This is of course assuming that you are rolling down the road x files stars dating you floor it; not leaving the vacuum from an idle or whatever your gauge speed is. If that is the gauge it is in your accelerator pump and there is a hook hole you can put the rod in to modify it.
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